On the road again...

Tasmania 2023, Day 9

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We left the holiday park in Bicheno this morning nice and early, about 07:00, and stopped at the Blue Edge Bakery for a quick start coffee before heading south.

The hills were very flat and rolling along was easy enough. Just rolling itself was a joy! We stopped for a quick toilet break opposite a cute little Christmas-decorated farm gate, and about 200 metres further south from the turnoff to Coles Bay Road we stopped at a little road stop called The Pondering Frog.

We had bacon and egg rolls and coffees and some fun local banter with Lester, a We believe he’s the co-proprietor, with his wife. who manned the till. He was a character!

Stopping for a breather on Coles Bay Road, looking out at the scrubby coastal bush.

Stopping for a breather on Coles Bay Road, looking out at the scrubby coastal bush.

We rode back up to the turn off, then along about 20–30 kilometres of scrubby coastal bush We looked it up later and indeed, there was a 1200ha bushfire here in September 2023, around the Friendly Beaches area. But even the desolation was unable to detract from its rugged beauty. As we entered Coles Bay, our breath was taken away by the vista of The Hazards looming over Coles Bay, clear, shimmering, pristine water.

Resting our bikes at the boat ramp and taking in the stunning vista.

Resting our bikes at the boat ramp and taking in the stunning vista.

We rested at the boat ramp with a 270º view, then rode around to the Iluka Tavern for a local pint or two. We had a Malting Lagoon Belgian Golden Ale and a Hazy Bayz. This is a local little craft brewery named after Moulting Lagoon, the body of water behind Coles Bay.

We checked into Freycinet Lodge for a few days of luxury after all the camping we’ve been doing. We took a Mountain King room, had a nice soaking bath in our outdoor bath full of epsom salts, then had two paddles of beer for tasting at The Hazards Bar, and dinner at The Bay restaurant.

Our outdoor bath was a much-anticipated delight. We filled it full of epsom salts and soaked our tired muscles.

Our outdoor bath was a much-anticipated delight. We filled it full of epsom salts and soaked our tired muscles.

We had the baked Tasmanian half shell scallops — which were the best dish of the dinner — and the Robbins Island wagyu bresaola as entrées; we had The Bay, which was an Atlantic salmon dish with Tasmanian wasabi and a mussels and ginger sauce; and the dry aged scotch fillet, cooked blue, with rainforest pepper, roasted roots and greens.

Taking a selfie on the outdoor deck of Freycinet Lodge.

Taking a selfie on the outdoor deck of Freycinet Lodge.

As the sun set, the outdoor deck filled up fast with lots of selfies, and a couple had a nice romantic honeymoon-style private dinner on the jetty, which looked pretty lovely.

We came back to our room, watched The Meg with Jason Statham, a cinematic tour-de-farce, and went to sleep.

Follow the journey

  • So we started planning this trip a few years ago, and unfortunately events at home (and not just the pandemic!) have transpired to keep us off our bikes for the most part, with a few exceptions such as my Great Ocean Road trip, but I had to do that one solo. In that time I’ve started a new job, Danielle bought a beautiful custom Velo Orange Pass Hunter gravel/touring bike and importantly, my children have continued to mature to the point I can now leave them for a few weeks to go a‑touring!
  • After more than a year of looking forward to, planning, stressing and organising, we’re finally on our way to sunny Tasmania! Of course, we haven’t quite made it to Tassie yet.
  • Our first-ever day of touring as a couple was, I fear, a bit of an eye-opener for Danielle! Not in terms of adventure, of course, as Danielle is a seasoned traveller who has roamed every corner of the world, but in terms of the physical demands of heavily loaded touring bikes.
  • This morning was a lovely one as we packed up our gear, and rode around to the Paperbark Café, not far from the park we’d stayed the night in. The café was new, and the breakfast — “mushroom huddle” with bacon for me; smashed avocado with Tasmanian salmon for Danielle — was delightfully delicious. And cheap! $18 without the extras in this economy!
  • We slept well last night. Maybe a little too well. We didn’t get packed up and off until late and we rolled into George Town at about 09:30. We visited the post office and mailed ahead 3.9kg of extras to reduce weight from our packs. We stopped at a café and I bought a coffee and found a free copy of Deliverance.
  • Day 4
    We set off too late again this morning from Bridport and as a result rode in the peak of the heat. We only did 20 kilometres to Scottsdale but there were lots of hills, trucks and no shade nor shoulder. Scottsdale itself is atop a big hill. We rested, however temporarily, at a cemetery on the outskirts where a nice little park bench under a tree provided us shade. It was lovely.
  • Today was a lovely day. We got up before sunrise (05:00) and were on the path to the North East Tasmanian Rail Trail before the sun came up. Compared to everything we’d ridden to date, and standing alone, it was a delightful leisurely roll through rainforest, farms, granite cuttings with overgrown ferns, old growth forest and logging areas and little makeshift station memorials where we had coffee and a breather.
  • We woke up this morning at The Dorset Hotel, and had our breakfast in the little dining room downstairs, packed our bags and bikes, and wheeled them across to the road to Bark Off Bikes. We took our fenders off in the rain then boarded the bus.
  • Today was… well… let’s start at the beginning, shall we? We awoke after spending a beautiful night under the clearest skies, to a gorgeous sunrise on the Bay of Fires. As we packed our tent, the sun poked up with beams of light streaming through the clouds and spread across the bay, and it was marvellous!
  • We started the morning with a nice brunch at Sco. & Co. and The Lifebuoy Café in St. Helens, as we we had arranged a rendezvous with Steve at 11. I had a mushroom bruschetta with bacon and Danielle had the green eggs and haloumi. It was delicious and both dishes featured a really nice basil pesto. We finished breaking our fast and rode back to the park opposite the hotel to take off our fenders and await Steve.
  • We left the holiday park in Bicheno this morning nice and early, about 07:00, and stopped at the Blue Edge Bakery for a quick start coffee before heading south. The hills were very flat and rolling along was easy enough.
  • A red letter day. We awoke naturally to the sunlight streaming over The Hazards and into our cabin as we nursed our hangovers from the wine and beer consumed last night. We dragged ourselves off to a breakfast of smoked salmon benedict for Danielle, and a Freycinet “Big Brekky” for myself, with two double espressos. We returned to our room for an in-room couples massage…
  • Well, fuck. We awoke late and had a nice breakfast, then packed up, checked out and headed off. At first we made good time.
  • I’ve had such an awesome tour this year around Tasmania, but I have to admit to some small disappointments and setbacks. So when I set out this morning at 05:45 to conquer kunanyi, the 1,270m high mountain overlooking Hobart, I was very dubious about my chances of making it successfully to the summit.
  • Danielle’s parents live in Sandy Bay, and her aunt Jan lives in Kingston Beach. The Channel Highway connects the two seaside suburbs of Hobart and lucky for us, it’s a favourite route for local cyclists, and for very good reason.

Copyright mmxxiv Ryan Moore. All rights reserved unless otherwise specified.