The North East Tasmanian Rail Trail

Tasmania 2023, Day 5

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Today was a lovely day. We got up before sunrise (05:00) and were on the path to the North East Tasmanian Rail Trail before the sun came up.

Compared to everything we’d ridden to date, and standing alone, it was a delightful leisurely roll through rainforest, farms, granite cuttings with overgrown ferns, old growth forest and logging areas and little makeshift station memorials where we had coffee and a breather.

The ‘Tongarah station’ rest stop was a perfect place for a mid-trail coffee

The ‘Tongarah station’ rest stop was a perfect place for a mid-trail coffee

We didn’t see many people — just Len, a bike packer we’d spoken to last night and two mountain bikers, a couple who were doing all the local runs and had completed the trail numerous times.

The couple advised us to take a gravel road shortcut south of the highway, but the locals in Branxholm had an opposite opinion and warned against it. Local knowledge trumped interstater and we pushed on to Derby via the Blue Derby Valley Ride path. It was a “family friendly” mountain bike trail that was just a tad too “technical” for my fully loaded Serena.

When we got to Derby we stopped at the Bark Off Biking MTB store where the owners Josh and Luke We’re running behind time and if we’re to make our Freycinet Lodge booking on 17 December, we need to “jump ahead” a little., so we checked in across the road at The Dorset Hotel.

I had a fish whilst waiting for the pub to open, and The banks of the river were riddled with platypus burrows, particularly where I was fishing from, and with trees either side preventing me from moving left or right along the banks, and not wanting to trample the burrows into the water, the fish eventually took me under a log and snapped me off. It was such beautiful trout water, and I was delighted that I had the foresight and fortitude to lug my fishing rod all this way. I would’ve been really pissed if I couldn’t fish it.

Beautiful trout water that just begged one to fish it.

Beautiful trout water that just begged one to fish it.

Danielle waited at a gazebo where she could check on both her Twitter feed, and the half-naked French boys in the van opposite. 🤣

We had dinner and beers at the pub, then Turns out I’m a half-decent cast of the fly rod when I’m drunk 😂 but I didn’t catch anything!, called Declan and Anneliese then went to sleep.

Everyone here is MTB-mad. Everything is “gnarly” and they are all like Californian surfer types, “shredding chutes”, “sessioning” and “eating shit” when they fall off. I like when a little community has its own lingo and ways of communication that both establish an insider and keep outsiders in the dark. Love it!

Follow the journey

  • So we started planning this trip a few years ago, and unfortunately events at home (and not just the pandemic!) have transpired to keep us off our bikes for the most part, with a few exceptions such as my Great Ocean Road trip, but I had to do that one solo. In that time I’ve started a new job, Danielle bought a beautiful custom Velo Orange Pass Hunter gravel/touring bike and importantly, my children have continued to mature to the point I can now leave them for a few weeks to go a‑touring!
  • After more than a year of looking forward to, planning, stressing and organising, we’re finally on our way to sunny Tasmania! Of course, we haven’t quite made it to Tassie yet.
  • Our first-ever day of touring as a couple was, I fear, a bit of an eye-opener for Danielle! Not in terms of adventure, of course, as Danielle is a seasoned traveller who has roamed every corner of the world, but in terms of the physical demands of heavily loaded touring bikes.
  • This morning was a lovely one as we packed up our gear, and rode around to the Paperbark Café, not far from the park we’d stayed the night in. The café was new, and the breakfast — “mushroom huddle” with bacon for me; smashed avocado with Tasmanian salmon for Danielle — was delightfully delicious. And cheap! $18 without the extras in this economy!
  • We slept well last night. Maybe a little too well. We didn’t get packed up and off until late and we rolled into George Town at about 09:30. We visited the post office and mailed ahead 3.9kg of extras to reduce weight from our packs. We stopped at a café and I bought a coffee and found a free copy of Deliverance.
  • Day 4
    We set off too late again this morning from Bridport and as a result rode in the peak of the heat. We only did 20 kilometres to Scottsdale but there were lots of hills, trucks and no shade nor shoulder. Scottsdale itself is atop a big hill. We rested, however temporarily, at a cemetery on the outskirts where a nice little park bench under a tree provided us shade. It was lovely.
  • Today was a lovely day. We got up before sunrise (05:00) and were on the path to the North East Tasmanian Rail Trail before the sun came up. Compared to everything we’d ridden to date, and standing alone, it was a delightful leisurely roll through rainforest, farms, granite cuttings with overgrown ferns, old growth forest and logging areas and little makeshift station memorials where we had coffee and a breather.
  • We woke up this morning at The Dorset Hotel, and had our breakfast in the little dining room downstairs, packed our bags and bikes, and wheeled them across to the road to Bark Off Bikes. We took our fenders off in the rain then boarded the bus.
  • Today was… well… let’s start at the beginning, shall we? We awoke after spending a beautiful night under the clearest skies, to a gorgeous sunrise on the Bay of Fires. As we packed our tent, the sun poked up with beams of light streaming through the clouds and spread across the bay, and it was marvellous!
  • We started the morning with a nice brunch at Sco. & Co. and The Lifebuoy Café in St. Helens, as we we had arranged a rendezvous with Steve at 11. I had a mushroom bruschetta with bacon and Danielle had the green eggs and haloumi. It was delicious and both dishes featured a really nice basil pesto. We finished breaking our fast and rode back to the park opposite the hotel to take off our fenders and await Steve.
  • We left the holiday park in Bicheno this morning nice and early, about 07:00, and stopped at the Blue Edge Bakery for a quick start coffee before heading south. The hills were very flat and rolling along was easy enough.
  • A red letter day. We awoke naturally to the sunlight streaming over The Hazards and into our cabin as we nursed our hangovers from the wine and beer consumed last night. We dragged ourselves off to a breakfast of smoked salmon benedict for Danielle, and a Freycinet “Big Brekky” for myself, with two double espressos. We returned to our room for an in-room couples massage…
  • Well, fuck. We awoke late and had a nice breakfast, then packed up, checked out and headed off. At first we made good time.
  • I’ve had such an awesome tour this year around Tasmania, but I have to admit to some small disappointments and setbacks. So when I set out this morning at 05:45 to conquer kunanyi, the 1,270m high mountain overlooking Hobart, I was very dubious about my chances of making it successfully to the summit.
  • Danielle’s parents live in Sandy Bay, and her aunt Jan lives in Kingston Beach. The Channel Highway connects the two seaside suburbs of Hobart and lucky for us, it’s a favourite route for local cyclists, and for very good reason.

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