Poppies and hills to Gravelly Beach

Tasmania 2023, Day 1

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Our first-ever day of touring as a couple was, I fear, a bit of an eye-opener for Danielle! Not in terms of adventure, of course, as Danielle is a seasoned traveller who has roamed every corner of the world, but in terms of the physical demands of heavily loaded touring bikes.

We left Devonport this morning after stopping for coffee at a little heritage house called Miss Jacqueline’s, but I once knew this place as The Gingerbread House when it was owned and operated by the family of a friend I had in my twenties. I also talked to a lady (another customer) who lived there some years during her youth.

The road out of Devonport was hilly and rolled through green pastures full of cows and poppies. There were lots of signs with skull-and-crossbones warning off anyone wanting to make their own opium!

After we passed the road that would go north to Port Sorell, the forests began and it was very picturesque and scenic, however the hills were long and winding and we were absolutely fucked by the time we’d gone 20 kilometres. We stopped at a little creek for a rest and a fish.

In Frankford we stopped at the Blue Barn Café to stock up on drinks and snacks, and Update: The postal service in rural Tasmania is pretty amazing, and these parcels, though posted from a little store on the highway in the middle of nowhere, reached their destination only a few days later, at Christmas to boot!

The café was lovely with a quaint little country garden. The people were nice also.

In Exeter we stopped at the Exeter Hotel to ask for lodging and the barmaid looked at me like I was asking for directions to Mars. A local barfly directed us to the Rose Bay Park in Gravelly Beach, where we cooked up some chicken, eggs, capsicum and onion we purchased from the IGA in Exeter. We also had salad and jerky. I had a fish but there was lots of jellyfish in the Tamar River. We set up camp in a quiet part of the park behind the toilets (and some bushes — it was nicer than it sounds) and we’re now resting and snoozing the afternoon away.

Today I journeyed on the lands of the Tommeginne, Tyerrernotepanner and Punnilerpanner people, who have lived on and cared for this land for millennia, and have never seded their sovereignty.
I want to thank the Traditional Owners and acknowledge their custodianship of, and connection to the beautiful land, rivers and waterways I enjoyed today because of their care. I also pay my respects to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people and their Elders past and present.

Follow the journey

  • So we started planning this trip a few years ago, and unfortunately events at home (and not just the pandemic!) have transpired to keep us off our bikes for the most part, with a few exceptions such as my Great Ocean Road trip, but I had to do that one solo. In that time I’ve started a new job, Danielle bought a beautiful custom Velo Orange Pass Hunter gravel/touring bike and importantly, my children have continued to mature to the point I can now leave them for a few weeks to go a‑touring!
  • After more than a year of looking forward to, planning, stressing and organising, we’re finally on our way to sunny Tasmania! Of course, we haven’t quite made it to Tassie yet.
  • Our first-ever day of touring as a couple was, I fear, a bit of an eye-opener for Danielle! Not in terms of adventure, of course, as Danielle is a seasoned traveller who has roamed every corner of the world, but in terms of the physical demands of heavily loaded touring bikes.
  • This morning was a lovely one as we packed up our gear, and rode around to the Paperbark Café, not far from the park we’d stayed the night in. The café was new, and the breakfast — “mushroom huddle” with bacon for me; smashed avocado with Tasmanian salmon for Danielle — was delightfully delicious. And cheap! $18 without the extras in this economy!
  • We slept well last night. Maybe a little too well. We didn’t get packed up and off until late and we rolled into George Town at about 09:30. We visited the post office and mailed ahead 3.9kg of extras to reduce weight from our packs. We stopped at a café and I bought a coffee and found a free copy of Deliverance.
  • Day 4
    We set off too late again this morning from Bridport and as a result rode in the peak of the heat. We only did 20 kilometres to Scottsdale but there were lots of hills, trucks and no shade nor shoulder. Scottsdale itself is atop a big hill. We rested, however temporarily, at a cemetery on the outskirts where a nice little park bench under a tree provided us shade. It was lovely.
  • Today was a lovely day. We got up before sunrise (05:00) and were on the path to the North East Tasmanian Rail Trail before the sun came up. Compared to everything we’d ridden to date, and standing alone, it was a delightful leisurely roll through rainforest, farms, granite cuttings with overgrown ferns, old growth forest and logging areas and little makeshift station memorials where we had coffee and a breather.
  • We woke up this morning at The Dorset Hotel, and had our breakfast in the little dining room downstairs, packed our bags and bikes, and wheeled them across to the road to Bark Off Bikes. We took our fenders off in the rain then boarded the bus.
  • Today was… well… let’s start at the beginning, shall we? We awoke after spending a beautiful night under the clearest skies, to a gorgeous sunrise on the Bay of Fires. As we packed our tent, the sun poked up with beams of light streaming through the clouds and spread across the bay, and it was marvellous!
  • We started the morning with a nice brunch at Sco. & Co. and The Lifebuoy Café in St. Helens, as we we had arranged a rendezvous with Steve at 11. I had a mushroom bruschetta with bacon and Danielle had the green eggs and haloumi. It was delicious and both dishes featured a really nice basil pesto. We finished breaking our fast and rode back to the park opposite the hotel to take off our fenders and await Steve.
  • We left the holiday park in Bicheno this morning nice and early, about 07:00, and stopped at the Blue Edge Bakery for a quick start coffee before heading south. The hills were very flat and rolling along was easy enough.
  • A red letter day. We awoke naturally to the sunlight streaming over The Hazards and into our cabin as we nursed our hangovers from the wine and beer consumed last night. We dragged ourselves off to a breakfast of smoked salmon benedict for Danielle, and a Freycinet “Big Brekky” for myself, with two double espressos. We returned to our room for an in-room couples massage…
  • Well, fuck. We awoke late and had a nice breakfast, then packed up, checked out and headed off. At first we made good time.
  • I’ve had such an awesome tour this year around Tasmania, but I have to admit to some small disappointments and setbacks. So when I set out this morning at 05:45 to conquer kunanyi, the 1,270m high mountain overlooking Hobart, I was very dubious about my chances of making it successfully to the summit.
  • Danielle’s parents live in Sandy Bay, and her aunt Jan lives in Kingston Beach. The Channel Highway connects the two seaside suburbs of Hobart and lucky for us, it’s a favourite route for local cyclists, and for very good reason.

Copyright mmxxiv Ryan Moore. All rights reserved unless otherwise specified.